After 4 nights we reluctantly bid farewell to Venice. Our next destination: picturesque Lake Garda. On our way though we decided to stop in the historic city of Verona, a place steeped in romantic lore.
Our first glimpse of Verona was a pleasant surprise. We parked the van at a dedicated area near the rather impressive Porta Palio before heading off to walk into the city in the relentless heat of the day. Under normal circumstances we would have waited, but as we had only 1 night here we thought we should push on.
We first encountered the castle walls and another gateway randomly facing the river, and then made our way through a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways, each one revealing a piece of Verona’s rich history. The city’s architecture was a delightful blend of medieval and Renaissance styles, with charming towers, arches and frescoed facades around every corner.
One of the highlights of our Verona adventure was discovering Juliet’s house, or at least the 15th-century residence attributed to her. It was a lovely building with its iconic balcony, but whilst there were many people who seemed to be stroking the left breast of Juliet’s statue in the hope of finding true love, we were struck more by the sheer commercialism of the house, beautiful as it was.
Just a stone’s throw away, we also found ‘Romeo’s house’. While the authenticity of these sites may be debatable, there’s no denying the lure they have on tourists (more so Juliet’s house).
Verona also revealed itself as a treasure trove of historical and artistic wonders. We stumbled upon ancient mausoleums that spoke of a bygone era, a rather disturbing set of stocks with a metal neck ring in the centre of a piazza, their solemnity contrasting with the romantic legends that surround the city.
As the day turned to dusk, we sat outside the van with a neighbour, a young Israeli lady travelling on her own towards Norway with her dog Lady. She had the much better idea of wandering into the city in the evening when the heat had abated somewhat!
After a memorable night in Verona, our adventure continued as we made our way to Peschiera, a charming town nestled on the shores of Lake Garda.
We decided on Camping Butterfly, although we quickly realized that it was a rather regimented place with its specific schedules, including designated times for taking out the rubbish.
On our day in Peschiera we cycled along the scenic shores of Lake Garda, heading towards the town of Garda itself. The path proved to be challenging at times, especially the beach section, but the breathtaking views of the lake made it all worthwhile. We paused for a leisurely lunch and a stroll in the lovely town of Lazise, where we discovered a hidden gem of a bar called Nautica. It turned out to be one of the best dining experiences of our trip, with delicious food and a warm atmosphere.
On our way back, we couldn’t resist the temptation to cool off with a refreshing swim in the lake. Thankfully, we had remembered to bring our water shoes, which proved essential for navigating the stony lakebed.
Our second evening in Peschiera took us to a bustling bar, Mida’s Strube, where we found ourselves in the company of Italian triathletes on a training run/swim/ride – we think they may have been international competitors 🙂
As much as we enjoyed Peschiera, we decided to move on to Garda, where we found a dedicated parking spot just a short walk from the lake. This location was perfect for us, and we once again took a dip in the lake, even though it was a bit rockier and less convenient than our previous swim – still a welcome respite from the heat.
In Garda, we made a big mistake by choosing an empty lakeside eatery. Initially presented with an a la carte menu that didn’t quite appeal to us, we were surprised by the waitress’s lack of grace when clearing our table. After a while, we decided to ask another waiter for a different menu – which they did have. We enjoyed our meal and drinks but were taken aback by a hefty bill, including a cover charge of 4E each, reminding us of the importance of choosing wisely when dining in touristy areas. We were really annoyed with ourselves as we are fully aware of these potential issues…
A stroll around Garda led us to a brass band playing, a delightful déjà vu from a previous visit to the town. We had hoped to find the market to replace a cherished tablecloth from years ago, but alas, the market day was the next day, and we missed it as we drove away.
Our final stop in Italy took us to South Tyrol, just south of the Austrian border, where we explored the stunning scenery, admired mountain views, and stumbled upon a mysterious circle of standing stones. As we crossed into Austria and headed towards Germany, we reflected on all the memories that made our 2023 trip through Italy an unforgettable journey, at the same time we looked forward to our meander home through Germany, France, Luxembourg and Belgium, which turned out to be a rather wonderful few weeks 🙂
We stayed: Porta Palio, Verona
turnrightoutofportsmouth 