On leaving the coast behind in El Puerto de Santa Maria and heading back into the mountains, we were going to head to a site in Olvera, but at the last minute I spotted a free motorhome service area shortly before Olvera in a little town called Algodonales, about 20 miles north of Ronda. Not only free but with electricity included – seemed too good to be true? It wasn’t! We ended up staying 4 nights 🙂
Once parked up we became aware of lots of music that seemed to emanate from the town itself, which was about a 10 minute walk away. We also spotted a number of walkers heading that way; so we decided that we should head into town ourselves. It’s quite a steep climb past chickens, building yards, lemon & orange groves and numerous streams.
The noise escalated as we neared the main square, where we found a finishing tunnel and an announcer with a microphone welcoming runners (and walkers) back on finishing the Viboras Trail (a run/hike up into the mountains and back – see below).
The route of the Algodonales Víboras Trail (which translates literally as “Cotton Snakes Trail) is a homage by us to one of the most testing routes in Andalusia. At 16 km in length and 916 meters of accumulated ascent, this route is a level three, and is a speciality trip that can only be accessed by club members. https://xcmag.com/travel-guide/guide-to-algodonales-spain/
We sat at a bar (very busy but we still managed to sit after a few minutes) and enjoyed a drink while watching these amazing people returning from their latest challenge 🙂
On the way back to the van we could see a white town in the distance. We thought we might cycle there in the morning, but then we looked on Google maps and saw how far it actually was! Back at the motorhome area the paragliders, that we’d spotted jumping off the mountain when we first arrived, Continue reading “Algodonales – a paragliders dream”
Before we left on this trip I knew that 1 of the places I wanted to visit this time was Cadiz, on the south-west coast of Spain.
What I didn’t know was that it is considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe, partly because they ‘capitulated’ to the Romans, meaning that they were able to keep most of their own customs and leading to Cadiz (Gades, as it was then) becoming one of the most important cities in the Roman Empire (and also one of the most infamous, due to the inhabitants lifestyle – and their Gaditan dancing girls).
Cadiz is a tiny city – it wouldn’t actually be difficult to walk around it, taking in all the principal sights, within a day. And, it certainly didn’t disappoint! But before we finally managed to visit (more on that later) we explored the immediate area around the campsite we stayed at (Playa las Dunas, El Puerto de Santa Maria), and also a visit to Jerez.
Our campsite was immediately in front of a beautiful beach. There is a lovely promenade stretching a couple of miles, although the cycle path goes further (we cycled it on a VERY windy day!) There is also a large pine forest backing onto the beach, well used by locals at the weekend for picnics etc.
There is a ferry that, apparently, will take you directly to Cadiz.. We tried 3 times before giving up and driving! The first time we really couldn’t understand why the ferry was cancelled – we actually took a video of the placid waters leaving the harbour.. The other 2 days we must admit it was a little lumpy (although the Isle of Wight ferry would have, without a doubt, been sailing!!)
Our first day out though started as a quick cycle ride along the promenade and ended in the narrow, quirky lanes of the old town (the advice when arriving in a motorhome is to make sure you DON’T try to go through the old town – we took a detour of a couple of miles just to make sure. We were glad we had once we saw the streets!)
This is a charming little town which reminded us both of Havana. Funnily enough we later learned that Cadiz itself is often called ‘Little Havana’ – we could see why, but we actually thought that El Puerto Maria was more of a fit for this name.
Bullring, El Puerto de Santa Maria
Church in El Puerto de Santa Maria (complete with Stork nests)
The narrow streets of old El Puerto de Santa Maria
The Alcazaba at El Puerto de Santa Maria
Pine forest, El Puerto de Santa Maria
The next day saw our first attempt to catch the ferry to Cadiz. And our first failure! We didn’t fancy the ‘replacement bus service’ (which would have taken us well over an hour), so headed off to Jerez instead.
Approaching on the main road there is nothing for miles and then suddenly in the distance you see this settlement – what I mean is, there is nothing and then you can see the city plonked in the nothingness! Once in the city the traffic is busy so we decided to just head for 1 of the underground parking garages (which wasn’t overly expensive), and we emerged into the main square, Plaza de Arenal, where we stopped for a drink – sat outside (where it wasn’t overly warm!)
The tourist office is in an amazing building here, and we had a quick look before simply following the signs towards the Alcazaba. This was an impressive building bordering by the Alameda Vieja, which I discovered means a ‘tree-lined avenue’, often Poplars. It also contained a bandstand and has recently been extensively renovated. Very popular, yet peaceful (as I said, it wasn’t the warmest of days!)
Our next discovery was the Iglesia de San Miguel. Set in a tiny square set with orange trees, we paid 5Euros each (but this also gave us entry to the cathedral and bell tower). The cathedral housed the most intricate, impressive nativity scene that I have ever seen!
Small and delightful I think just about covers this 🙂
On the way to the cathedral we saw many ancient buildings, including the church of Dionisio. Admittedly it would have been nice to take advantage of the CityBus (tourist open top) which runs through the city, but unfortunately there was no sign of it on the day we visited.
Bandstand on the Alameda, Jerez
Iglesia de San Miguel, Jerez
Iglesia de San Miguel, Jerez
Plaza de Arenal, Jerez
Iglesia de Dionisio, Jerez
You may have noticed that I haven’t mentioned sherry, which is obviously what Jerez is most famous for? Well, there were several bodegas and Caves (some very large), but neither of us actually like sherry and so we’re not drawn to these places as most other people are, but there is plenty of choice if this is what you’re looking for!
We also didn’t visit the famous equestrian school (Fundacion Real Escuela). I would have liked to but it was a little way out of town and at a price of approx. 20Euros each for a show we decided against it. You can visit the school and museums for a much lower price, but for me it would be the show I wanted.
The next day found us attempted, once again, to catch the ferry to Cadiz. Once again the ferry was cancelled (admittedly it was a little more blustery this time). So we decided to go for a bike ride the other way along the promenade. A lovely ride, finding more beautiful beaches, a sailing school and marina (Puerto Sherry), places for motorhomes to park up by the beach and a ruined castle atop the cliffs. It did get extremely windy though so we turned back after about an hour.
Impressive cacti in the ruins of Santa Catalina castle
Playa Santa Catalina from castle ruins
Tower at Playa de la Calita
Ruins of Santa Catalina castle
Castle ruins nr Puerto Sherry
When we tried the ferry again the next day, we decided to give up and drive! It took us about 1/2 hour, taking us past the wetlands of Cadiz (with their many paths and bird-watching opportunities), and over the, rather impressive, la Puente de la Constitution 1812 (there is a choice of 2 bridges), and parking underground (this is normal in Spain :))
Cadiz is absolutely charming. And very compact. Once again it was very windy when we visited, which meant we didn’t visit the castles sites slightly offshore and accessible via a causeway – I was worried we might get blown into the sea!! On leaving the centre we had driven around the coast road, and as I didn’t realise how small it was I was completely disoriented, not believing we had actually passed by all the sights I should have been looking out for! They are in the process of laying a proper cycle path (i.e. smooth – unlike the one at Puerto de Santa Maria. Which, at first sight, looks excellent, but is actually made of bricks, many of which are now rising meaning that you have to really concentrate when riding along it).
In the centre there are several walks to follow. Quite literally! In a couple of the following photos you might notice a coloured line on the road? You simply follow the colour that you want to – very easy 🙂 Incidentally we visited on a Saturday, and found that you could visit the cathedral for free (although not the bell tower), after the service.
Also in the square in front of the cathedral there were scout and guide troops on a day out playing numerous games – great fun to watch 🙂
We also watched young ladies learning flamenco, of which there is a rich history in Cadiz.
There is so much to see in this little city and I wouldn’t be surprised if we returned another day. Highly recommended 🙂
A few days on the south west tip of Spain with it’s stunning beaches 🙂
From Casares we headed back to Castillo Duquesa to pick up the little car, and from there it was off towards Tarifa for a few days.
We had decided on Camping Valdevequeros from the ACSI book, which wasn’t our favourite site! However, it was opposite the most beautiful beach – Valdevequeros – which reminded us very much of Portugese beaches.
So we spent a very pleasant afternoon on this beach – I even went in paddling (the water was cold but I got in up to my belly!) We found an area where many campers were parked up – unfortunately we couldn’t take advantage as we had a problem with the gas that Calv didn’t fix until we got to our next site).
We also found out about Baelo Claudia, an extensive site of Roman remains just a few miles away that is free to visit and has lots to see – we spent a good couple of hours here.
Along the road where Baelo Claudia is there are several areas where campers are parked up – we didn’t really fancy any of these areas though. But we did drive on up past the roman remains until we couldn’t go any further on the rutted road (we were heading into a military area…)
Cattle at Bolonia nr Baelo Claudia
Cattle at Bolonia nr Baelo claudia
We also went into Tarifa on the Saturday. Once we had parked just past the port we took a footpath down towards the beach (this isn’t such a nice beach!) where we explored a few abandoned houses – there were many that looked abandoned but on closer inspection they were several that were clearly lived in, as well as a couple that seemed to house several dogs – that liked barking!
Once back up on the road we headed into the old town. The town was very busy on a Saturday afternoon, with the tapas bars full and lively. When we wound our way round to the castle we found that we had just missed the chance to visit as it was closing to new visitors. It was all pleasant enough, but certainly didn’t grab us as several other places have. Still, worth a visit.
A wonderful discovery in the mountains above Manilva 🙂
Finally tearing ourselves aware from the comfort and familiarity of Cabopino, we were aiming to spend a night or 2 at the spot in Puerto Duquesa that we had scoped out on the day we visited the Banos de la Hedionda (click here for relevant post), followed by a couple of nights in the free aire on the outskirts of Casares.
If you’ve been reading regularly you will know things don’t always go according to plan! This time everything seemed fine to start with. We arrived in the car park by Castillo Duquesa, parked up and had a cup of tea. All was fine as a policeman did his rounds and was perfectly happy, so we spent a couple of hours on the beach – which was idyllic at first as we had it pretty much all to ourselves, the sun was out and the van was but metres away! It was lovely even though the beach is not the nicest (slightly grey and gritty sand), and after about 1/2 hour the sandflies decided they liked the look of me!
So after a lovely couple of hours relaxing we returned to the van, to find 2 more vans parked behind us, and popped the kettle on again. At this point (it was after 5pm by now) the police returned, there were 2 of them this time, They proceeded to move everyone on, saying camping wasn’t allowed – indicating our step being out as being ‘camping behaviour’… We’re pretty sure the problem was really that whilst they will tolerate 3 or 4 vans, anymore causes an issue. The 2 vans parked behind us took the number stopped there to half a dozen.
Not wanting any more run ins with the police we moved – being our first time trying to park free of charge – to the nearby site of Bellavista (at 31 Euros for the night…) In the morning I went for a run along the seafront promenade and saw that 3 of the vans were still parked up where we had been – possibly confirming our theory relating to why we were moved on.
I visited Benalmadena years ago with my boys (staying in the Flatotel which was perfect for us at the time). Whilst we were there that time we visited the theme park, Tivoli World (I was never going to get away with not going was I with 2 young boys in tow!)
This time though we were determined to go up the mountain in the cable car. We tried twice…. The 1st time we got to Benalmadena before realising that the weather wasn’t as warm there as back at Cabopino, and would, of course, be cooler still at the top of the mountain – plus neither of us had bought any sort of warm top with us. So we had to abort. The trip wasn’t a complete wash-out though – we sat and had a drink in a cafe and found a cheap perfume shop where Calv managed to buy me a birthday present 🙂
A month later we finally found the time to return to head up the cable car. This time it was much warmer but we went fully ready for all eventualities – except for the fact that the day before we arrived it had closed for a month (as, apparently, it does every year…) We are completely useless and really must be better prepared. Continue reading “Delights on our Doorstep – Days out from Cabopino”
The 2nd of a couple of wonderful days out from Cabopino – Banos de Hedionda was quite possibly my favourite day out of this trip so far!
We had been told about a couple of places that we could park for free and were keen to check these out, never having parked for free before. Along with these 2 spots we had been told about the Banos de la Hedionda, a Roman Baths that you can still swim in.
I’m telling you about this separately as it turned into a trip of 2 halves!
We had planned the day out with Steve and Denise for a Sunday and we were almost ready to go when Calv decided that we should fill up with fuel before we actually left. So over to the fuel station opposite Cabopino we went – cue a little confusion as signs on the pumps suggested that we had to pay before filling up, so Calv decided to see if the pump worked, it did. ‘Is this the right fuel?’ ‘Gaseole’ I read, ‘Diesel; yes’ And Calv proceeded to fill up.
We then all piled into the little car with our supplies for the day and set off along the A7 towards Marbella. After about a mile and a half Calv said ‘We’re breaking down…!’ , the engine management light came on and we started to limp. Luckily there was an exit handy (which turned out to be into the car park for the abandoned Marbella Roc hotel – shame as it looked really lovely). This is where we realised (as I am sure you already have) that we had put the wrong fuel in the poor little car and we weren’t going anywhere until we’d sorted it out 😦
This is where knowing several people onsite came in handy! We rang Alan, who was in a caravan so definitely had a towbar, to come to the rescue – which he did and really quickly too 🙂 (Thanks again Al 🙂 ) He firstly took us all back to the site before he and Calv returned to pick up the car (using the A-frame).
Calv then spent the majority of the next 7 hours emptying the diesel out (which wasn’t easy) and then putting some unleaded in (if only we’d done that in the first place!); and finally turning the engine over and over to expel the remaining diesel from the pipes…. Steve kept him company for the first hour or so, then I went into the car park to see if there was anything I could do – this turned out to be going and fetching more fuel (using Graham’s, of Bargain Loving Brits in the Sun fame, spare fuel can) and later turning the engine over and over again and again (we also had use of Jill’s – Jill and Roger, also seen frequently on Bargain Loving Brits in the Sun, car hooked up to the jump leads).
When the engine eventually fired it was a good moment, but also very dramatic! It looked like the car was on fire…
All’s well that ends well and we re-organised our trip for a couple of days later 🙂
We decided in the end that this was actually for the best because just imagine how busy it would have been on a Sunday!!
We were going quite a way, beyond Estepona to Manilva. Our first stop was to have a quick look at a campsite, Bellavista, which we didn’t really like (and at 31Euros had no intention of staying there – only we did…)
From there we took a walk along the boardwalk towards the marina of Puerto Duquesa (where we had a quick drink), which took us through the 1st of our suggested stopovers, in the car park in front of the Castillo Duquesa. Overnight parking is usually tolerated here, but we think that there is a limit on numbers as when we tried, a few weeks after our initial visit, the police were happy at first but when more motorhomes turned up they came back and moved us all on… So our first attempt at free camping failed (and that’s why we ended up in BellaVista).
Next stop the motorhome parking area at Casares (which we resolved to definitely use)
And finally to the best part of the entire day – the Banos de la Hedionda. Although they don’t look much from the outside (when you eventually find them), this is one of my favourite activities on the whole trip so far. We were literally swimming in history – the baths are believed to have been originally built by Julius Caesar, when the waters were recognised as having healing properties. They were later modified by the Arabs when they conquered the area.
You can swim inside or outside – we went inside (apparently it was warmer outside). I would recommend water shoes, simply because I’m a bit of a woss and don’t like putting my feet down when I can’t see what’s on the bottom! I could put my feet down in a couple of places; you could also swim down the tunnel where there was a shallow pool that you could climb into – there was also another passageway that was so dark you couldn’t see someone literally a foot away! Without a torch I wasn’t willing to venture down there, but might well do on another visit (with a torch!)
There is clear evidence that this was once a thriving attraction, but when we went we were the only people there (although I understand that in the summer you now have to book your place (free of charge though). On the walk back we also found the old aqueduct across the river.
I cannot recommend a visit here highly enough – although remember to remove any jewellery; it turned somebody else’s Pandora jewellery black..!
A couple of wonderful days out from Cabopino – Banos de Hedionda (which I’ll tell you about in #2 post) was quite possibly my favourite day out of this trip so far!
Our friend Steve has a wonderful book, Wild Swimming in Spain (we have the equivalent for the UK) which we borrowed for a couple of nights, finding a couple of spots that we wanted to visit. Charca de Canalon and Embalse de la Concepcion.
So we decided on a day, packed our sandwiches, towels etc. and headed off on the road up into the mountains above Marbella. We followed the instructions, both on the SatNav and in the book, which took us along narrow roads until we weren’t even on a road at all, noticing evidence of recent rockfalls along the way. It was one of those drives that Calv enjoyed, and I didn’t quite so much…. And it culminated in us NOT finding what we were looking for!! On asking a group of Spanish men as we made our way back along the road it would appear we didn’t go quite far enough – and they looked at our car and expressed doubt that we would have made it. Having said that we were expecting to have to park up and walk a couple of km to get to the pool anyway. We think the SatNav stopped us immediately above where the pool was, but of course it wasn’t visible from the top. See the video below for just a small section of the drive. Continue reading “A couple of Secret Swimming Spots ‘found’ in Andalucia #1”